Türkiye’ye hoşgeldiniz: Expatriate Life in Turkey

Turkey – the country that spans two continents – could be described as an emblematic expatriate destination: Even the history of Istanbul, its cultural, economic and financial center, can be said to go back to an ancient “expat settlement”, that is, to one of the many colonies founded by Greeks around the Western Mediterranean sea.

The town of Byzantion marks the beginning of a fascinating blend of cultural influences, which persists in Istanbul to this day. The 21^st-century tourist or newly arrived expatriate is still amazed at the first ferry ride from one half of Istanbul to the other – a mere 15 minutes on the Bosporos, suspended between Europe and Asia, surrounded by the heritage of several millennia, empires and world religions.

Istanbul is indeed the most popular place of residence for expats in Turkey today. Although official statistics on “settled foreigners” are hard to come by and not always up-to-date, the International Strategic Research Organization, an Ankara-based think tank, delivered some helpful analyses concerning expatriates in Turkey. More than 50% of the 202, 085 foreigners who were official residents in 2008 opted for life in Istanbul, with the cities of Bursa, Antalya, Ankara, and Izmir trailing behind.

As stereotypical as it might sound, the choice of city does frequently reflect the expat’s main reason for moving (or following their spouse) to Turkey: Istanbul’s economic climate, with its focus on import-export, banking, and insurance, makes it the obvious option for people pursuing a career abroad. Ankara, the capital and political heart of the country, is a hub for expatriates associated with the city’s many foreign missions. The places on the western and southern coast attract many foreigners enchanted by Turkey’s beauty and its warm climate, among them numerous retirees enchanted by sun and sea – and the relatively cheap cost of living.

The latter group of expats in particular is often referred to as “settled tourists”: They fell in love with Turkey during a vacation and made it their life’s dream to spend their retirement years among the golf courses of Belek, the hiking paths of Marmaris or on the beaches of Bodrum. Such expatriates often hail from more northern EU states, such as Germany, the Netherlands, the UK, and Scandinavia. Generally speaking, nationals of EU countries, mainly Bulgarians, Germans, and Brits, also make up the largest foreign communities in Turkey.

While most expats in Turkey, including “settled tourists”, often express a genuine interest in Turkish history and culture, many also voice their frustration when it comes to dealing with local bureaucracy for administrative issues, like obtaining a residence permit from the police. However, such typical expat problems seem to be made worse by a veritable “communications issue” between Turkish society and the expatriate community: Quite a few expats give up their struggle with the intricacies of the Turkish language all too soon. This may, in turn, leave a negative impression with the local population, especially outside cosmopolitan Istanbul.

So, in addition to relaxing in a hammam (Turkish bath), gorging on lokum (Turkish delight) or shopping till dropping in the bazaar, some expats go in search for a conversation exchange partner to brush up their Turkish beyond a grateful teşekkür ederim (“thank you”) or an embarrassed anlamadım – türkçem kötüdür (“I don’t understand – my Turkish is bad”). Of course, expats also delight in socializing, both with other members of the foreign community and with locals who can help them settle in Turkey more easily.  It’s no wonder that there are numerous expatriate associations in Turkey, like the International Women of Istanbul, or even small special-interest groups, such as the Fethiye Times Garden Club.